10,:'%''%^^' 



HIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 



^ [SMITHSOmAN DEPOSIT.] 



-^^•f . AA!?D<b i 



I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 






L> 3> ::> 



2f3:>y 


>~ 


t33 -» 


>.>'3»:> :xo> 


) 


VJ > •» 


->>>'.> >-•' 


:> . 


yi:> » 


'v3 »> > .» .' ■' 


3 .;■> 


o.> 


>:> ■>> j»oi ' 


■ 'y^y- 


:> - -J 


s^-> »> ^O' - 


> 7 - 


» ) 


,> vO 3>^.' . 


>>-> 


.:> • J 


. -> >>:> >j j> ' ^ 


Z>ni>:> 


:> j> 


o2i> ,:>.:)' •; 


yyo 


3^ 


>_»> « Z»^' .; .. 


. :5 >> y 


o_:^ = 


o»:5 T>'i^j ) ' 


. ^ ) ) 


^O' 


o:>o ,>>:)i ^ 


> .9 . 


D y 


o>>> :» 3^ ^ 


:, •,.->. 


:> ) ' 


.^>A> :»3^ ^ 


:>}j 


• j> )^ 


>)» 1» 3^ o 


. r>'v ■ 


:> \r 


'>2^ u^ 3j'^ i> . 


y>2j* 


J) .>r 


~iE> ~->TiS . . T 


> "• ) 


-» . .=^ 






A Hand Book 



^1 



Lake Memphremagog, 



WITH ROUTE LIST, 




Balance Rock, Lake ilemphremagog. 

By John Ross Dix, Author of " Pen and Ink 
Sketchef," &c., &c.. 

With Illuftrations by the Author. 

TO BE HAD AT ALL RAILWAY DEPOTS. 

Price 25 Cents. 



?g/g,6vs^ 



-eya^S 



A HAND BOOK 



LAKE MEMPHREMAGOa, 



"WITH ROUTE LIST, 



BY JOHN EOSS DIX, ^^^.^X^^z. 



Author of " Pen and Ink Sketches," &c., &c., with Illus- 
trations, BY THE Author. 



TO BE HAD AT ALL RAILWAY DEPOTS. 



PKICE 25 CENTS. 



;vvvvS(Xv^-X 



-■~.,n-^:^^: 



BOSTON : 

PRINTED BY EVANS & CO., 152 WASHINGTON STREET. 

/ 



rJ7 

,M5Cfc 



A HAND BOOK 

FOB LAKE MEMPHREMAaoa. 



CHAPTER I. 



Where it is and how to get there. The Conneclicnt 
and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad. Scenery on the 
banks of the Connecticut. Neivport. 

Something new ! that is the universal cry or craving 
now-a-days. It is so in the matter of travelling, as in 
almost everything else. Whatever may be the special 
attractions of any place, in the eyes of summer tour- 
ists generally, (poets and landscape painters perhaps 
excepted,) the gloss of novelty wears off after a few 
" seasons," and then comes a longing for " the far off 
unattained and (distantly) dim." Familiarity with 
" Springs," " Lakes," " Mountains," " Watering-pla- 
ces" and the like, is apt to breed, as in the case of 



4 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

some of our acquaintance, a species of indifference 
approaching to dislike. Even in this great country, 
where, travel in what direction we will, there are sum- 
mer resorts in plenty — each one, as its interested pro- 
prietors blandly inform us — " a little Heaven below." 
The important question is asked every spring — Where 
shall we go this season ? Where can we find fresh 
fields and pastures new ? Mount Washington, Niagara, 
Newport, Cape May, the Mammoth Cave, and many 
other " Lions" of travel, have all been " done," and 
we sigh like the voluptuary of old, for a " new pleas- 
ure." Can such be found ? We answer yes ! Visit 
Lake Memphremagog, and our word for it — artist, 
hunter after the picturesque, seeker after health, gun- 
ner in search of game, angler for trout, pickerel or 
longe, bold mountain-climber, strong-armed boatman, 
lady wanderer who loves to saunter in verdurous groves 
and winding mossy ways — you will, each and all of 
you, exclaim after a sojourn on the banks of this lovely 
lake — Eureka ! 

Sui)|)osing the reader to have decided on visiting 
Lake Memphremagog, the next thing requisite to know 
is how to get there. Fortunately, in these days of 
steam, that is an easy matter enough — for one may 
breakfast in Boston. New York, Portland, Montreal or 
Quebec, and sup within the shadow of the '' Owls 
Head" Mountain, about twelve miles from the head of 
the lake, and in the very heart of its beauties. As at 
the end of this Hand Book will be found a complete 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 5 

table of routes, we will suppose the visitor from the 
south to have arrived at White River Junction, Yt., 
little more than 150 miles from Boston, where the 
Northern and several other Railways connect with the 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, which 
latter line will convey you to within fifteen miles of 
the head of the lake, at Newport. 

Sufficient time elapses between the arrival of trains 
from the south, and the departure of that for the north, 
for the tourist to get a capital dinner at the Junction 
Hotel ; or if he chooses, there is a good Restaurant 
close to the track. If a stroll be preferred to " crea- 
ture comforts," the Railroad Bridges and the works of 
the Railway Companies, will repay inspection. Here 
White River flows into the Connecticut. The scenery 
around is picturesque, but the reality of Railways has 
gone far to banish the " romance" of landscape. If 
the reader will read the graphic description of a Rail- 
road " Junction" in Dickens' tour of " Two Idle Ap- 
prentices," he will get a very accurate notion of the 
particular one to which we are alluding. 

It is one very great advantage of a tour to Lake 
Memphremagog, that the way to it, for the most part, 
lies among some of the most charming scenery in the 
world. The loveliness of the valley of the Connecti- 
cut, and the beauty of the river, has afforded many a 
theme and scene to poet and artist. For a distance of 
about forty miles on the Connecticut and Passumpsic 
Rivers Railroad, the track lies close to the river, af- 



6 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

fording fine opportunities of seeing its placid expan- 
sion, picturesque falls, and various windings, as well 
as of the verdant intervals on its either side, the moun- 
tains by which they are bounded, and the farms and 
villages which gleam white among embowering trees 
on the gentle slopes and pleasant plateaux. But a 
truce to anticipation. Amos Barnes Esq., the efficient 
Conductor on the line, cries " all aboard," and in 
another moment we cross White River Bridge en route 
in earnest, for the lake, 

Now and then we catch glimpses of the river, just 
enough to whet our eye-appetite for that which is to 
come. One object of interest is a large dam. Cross- 
ing Blood brook, the Hanover and Norwich Station is 
reached, (4^ miles from White River.) These vil- 
lages cannot be seen from the Railway, as each lies on 
a high table-land about half a mile from either bank. 
You may notice on the depot platform, some spruce 
young Cadets in uniform, chatting with pale, or merry- 
visaged student-looking young men ; the former are 
from Norwich University, a Military Educational Es- 
tablishment ; the latter from Dartmouth College, (Free 
Bridge) at Hanover. Six miles further on is Ompompa- 
noosuc Station, before reaching which, we note several 
islands in the river. The euphonious appellation of 
the place is derived from the fact that formerly it 
abounded in wild onions — possibly it was the '' Weth- 
ersfield" of the Indians. Thetford, famous for its 
Academy, is next reached ; then North Thetford, Fair- 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 7 

lee, Orford, and Piermont Crossing, a quarter of a 
mile from which, is the picturesque old bridge over the 
Connecticut, (for an engraving of which, see page 11.) 

After a ride of five miles we pass Bradford and get 
to the Haverhill depot ; the village on the New Hamp- 
shire side of the river is beautifully situated on a table- 
land, high above the stream. Far beyond, is seen 
Moose Hillock, 4,636 feet high, the Sugar Loaf Moun- 
tain and Black Hill. The river views here are remark- 
ably fine, and the meadows wonderfully verdant, owing 
to the frequent overflowing of the Connecticut, which, 
receding, leaves, Nile-like, a rich deposit of alluvia 
on the land. 

Newbury — perhaps the prettiest village on the river, 
now appears in sight — Mount Pulaski forming a mag- 
nificent back ground to its churches, its well knpwn 
Wesley an Academy, stores and dwelling houses. Here 
is one of the best hotels in the State — the Newbury 
House, kept by Mr. Nelson B. Stevens. If time per- 
mits, the tourist should by all means spend a day, at 
least, here, and ascend Pulaski, from whose summit he 
will have one of the finest views of the valley and 
river. Here too are the far-famed Sulphur Springs, 
to which in summer hundreds of invalids resort. Near 
Newbury is a fine bend of the river called the Great 
Ox-Bow, a sketch of which we give on the next page. 

Leaving Newbury, we see on our right, in the dis- 
tance, the Franconia Range, which alone hide the 
White Mountains ; and shooting along the base of In- 



8 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 



gall's hill, reach Wells River Village, where is the ter- 
minus of the White Mountain Railroad. Still run- 
ning by the river side, we next reach Mclndoes, where 
there is one of the finest falls on the Connecticut. A 
mile or two further on is Barnet, a place almost exclu- 
sively inhabited by Scotchmen, some " cannie" Caledo- 
nians having purchased the land on which it stands, 
years ago, and their descendants still keeping posses- 
sion of it. 




Great Ox-Bow. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 9 

Here the track leaves the banks of the Connecticut 
and goes thundering along the banks of the Passump- 
sic River, (a tributary of the former,) past McLerans 
and Passumpsic Depot, to St. Johnsbury, one of the 
most important places in Vermont. Here is a capital 
Hotel, the St. Johnsbury House, kept by Mr. Watson. 
Here is located the world-renowned Scale Factory of 
the Messrs. Fairbanks ; indeed these works and their 
surroundings, form a distinct village called after its 
founders, whose vast influence for good is owned and 
appreciated by all who know them. Fairbanks Village 
is well worthy a visit ; it is the very Eden of Manu- 
facturing Industry. 

After passing St. Johnsbury Centre, the Passumpsic 
becomes so very tortuous that one might fancy a gi- 
gantic corkscrew had been liquefied. Just before 
reaching Lyndon, there are some picturesque falls 
which will delight an artistic eye. The next station 
is West Burke, where stages are in waiting to convey 
passengers to Willoughby Lake, (five miles distant ;) 
there Mr. Bemis keeps a first rate Hotel on the lake's 
bank. In a short time, after ascending a rather steep 
grade, the track runs along a high bank at the base of 
which is Bell Water Pond — a sheet of water about 
three miles in length, and averaging one in width. It 
is famous for its longe. At the outlet of the pond is 
Barton, the present terminus of the Railroad, which, 
however, will soon be extended to Newport. 

There is little in Barton to detain the tourist. Mr. 
1 



10 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Milton D. Thompson, the very obliging and active De- 
pot Master, will afford strangers every facility in pro- 
curing stages to convey them the remaining 15 miles 
of their journey ; or if a stay for the night be preferred, 
there is the Barton Hotel, where Messrs. Hill & Buck 
will show guests every attention. There is also a Rail- 
way Hotel, but stages run to and from the former 
house. 

Immediately on the arrival of the train, stages start 
for Newport, where we will suppose the reader to have 
arrived ; and now we are fairly on the banks of Lake 
Memphremagog, which as we descend the hill to the 
village, stretches away to the north, until in the far 
distance, it blends with the purple shadows of the sur- 
rounding mountains. 

Excellent accommodations may be found at the 
Memphremagog Hotel, which is famous among epicures 
for its fish. Pickerel, trout and longe are scarcely out 
of the lake, before, like St. Lawrence of old, they are 
broiling on a grid-iron — out of the water into the fire, 
may (to us^) pleasantly vary the old adage. But we 
have no time for culinary raptures ; therefore let us 
mount the neighboring hill and get a general view of 
the lake and landscape — 'twill well repay the trifling 
toil of climbing. This pedestrian feat accomplished, 
we hear as we descend, the bell of the Steamboat, and 
hurrying on we soon reach the wharf, at the end of 
which the " Mountain Maid" is (for it is 8 o'clock, 
A. M.) waiting for her living cargo. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 



11 




Old Bridge at Piermont Crossing. 



12 MEMPHREMAGOG. 



CHAPTER II. 



Trip on the Lake — Bays and Landings — Passenger 
Portraits — Province Line and Island — Whetstone 
Island — A Treasure Cave — The Mountain House. 



Here come the passengers by one's, and two's, and 
three's, at first, then in groups of a dozen or more — 
then one's and two's and three's again — and as the 
Captain cries " Let go there," — the inevitable last man, 
who (being of a portly and plethoric habit) comes 
panting and perspiring and looking daggers at the 
Captain, who we may here introduce to the reader as 
Captain Fogg, than whom we do not know a pleasanter 
or politer personage. In fact he is just the man for 
the position he occupies, and so well posted up as to 
the lake and everything concerning it, that had he 
time to answer all the questions put to him by his 
eager passengers, we might as well have left this Guide- 
book unwritten. 

While the boat is rounding her bows to the north, we 
may as well give a brief, general sketch of the lake — 
whose name may at first be rather puzzling to tongues 
not quite as much accustomed to aboriginal nomeac- 
lature as Mr. Schoolcraft. Memphremagog is doubt- 
less a corruption of the Indian name, Memploiv-bou- 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 13 

que, which signifies a large, beautiful expanse of water ; 
at least, so says Mr. Pratt, in his Gazetteer of Vermont. 
Its extreme length is nearly 50 miles — but only a lit- 
tle over 30 miles are navigable by large boats. The 
average breadth is about three miles. About one-third 
of its length is situated in Vermont — the remaining 
two -thirds are in Canada. Three streams empty them- 
selves into it at its southern extremity ; the Clyde, 
Barton and Black Rivers. It is also fed by some 
smaller tributaries and springs, and has its outlet at 
Magog, where it furnishes a magnificent water privi- 
lege. It finally empties itself into the St. Francis Riv- 
er, and its Avaters thus find their way to the St. Law- 
rence. 

We will now endeavor to describe it in detail, by 
pointing out as we steam along, whatever may be 
deemed wortliy of note or comment. 

We have not to go far in search of the picturesque ; 
it is one great and charming feature of Lake Mem- 
phremagog, that its shores, throughout its entire length, 
are indented with beautiful bays, between which, in 
many places, jut out bold headlands ; in fact, there 
is not a " bit" of tame scenery to be met with ; and so 
one is spared the disagreeable necessit}^ — inevitable in 
some less favored locality — of travelling ten dreary 
miles to see perhaps one mile of scenery worth looking 
at. Another object worthy of note, and it may as 
well be mentioned here — is the great purity of its wa- 
ters ; you never see weed or scum fringing its shores ; 



14 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

close to either rocky or grassy margin, it is as pure as 
at its centre. 

At the first glance from the deck of the Mountain 
Maid, the lake appears as if it were completely land- 
locked by the mountains within the range of vision ; 
in fact, it seems almost circular, owing to a slight curv- 
ature, which from this point cuts off the prospect 
northward. The eastern shore is less mountainous 
than the western, generally ; here it gently slopes to 
the water, the upland being dotted with farms and 
pretty dwellings. Right ahead is seen a projecting 
point, or spur of land, called Indian Pointy where In- 
dians encamped as lately as sixty years ago — so at least 
we were informed by an old gentleman, a native of this 
region, who well remembered having seen their wig- 
wams, with squaws sitting in front, making or mending 
nets. Immediately after leaving Newport, a wooded 
point is passed, and Adams* Bay comes suddenly into 
view ; this is a semi-circular indentation of the lake, 
and highly picturesque. On the right, and a little to 
the north, the waters widen and form a sort of harbor, 
in which is a cluster of small islands, of which those 
called Black Island, and Tea-table Island, are the most 
noticeable. These islets, however, cannot be seen to 
advantage from the Steamboat, but a good view of them 
may be obtained from the high land near the road from 
Newport to Derby Centre, on the eastern, or from the 
stage road, on the western shore. 

Other islands are seen ahead, which we shall describe 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 15 

as we reach them. Having passed Adams\ we now 
come abreast of Potton Bay, (also on the western 
side) named after the township in which it is situated. 
Here the prospect is extremely grand. On our left, 
rises Bear Mountain, part of a continuous range which 
appears to terminate in distance, in the OwVs Head, 
which towers above all its aspiring neighbors. Viewed 
from this direction, this now famous mountain has a 
peculiarly rounded summit, which seems riven into im- 
mense fissures ; this bald and craggy top is very strik- 
ing, rising abruptly, as it does, from among the trees 
that clothe the mountain from the water's edge, to with- 
in a few rods of its crest. 

But we must not, in our admiration of the landscape, 
omit to notice the " figures" which, artistically speak- 
ing, give life to our picture. We need not look far for 
these ; not further indeeed than the deck of the Moun- 
tain Maid, on which specimens of almost every de- 
scription of the genus tourist may be seen. Those two 
gentlemen dressed in suits of the true sportsman's pat- 
tern and cut, seated on trunks which have evidently 
endured much wear and tear, and yet are as servicea- 
ble and strong as ever — who are surrounded with fish- 
ing-rods, camping materials, guns and what not, are 
evidently a brace of English travellers, who are intent 
on " bar," deer, and fish, for the capture of which lat- 
ter, one of them rather ostentatiously exhibits a book 
of magnificent '^ flies" spoon-hooks and lines, bought 
in London, and warranted to " kill." Near them is a 



16 MEMPHREMAGOG 

rough looking fellow, whose rifle and shabby fishing- 
rod are strapped together ; he looks contemptuously at 
the blue and red hackle, and the London flies general- 
ly, and feels quite sure they wont " du." Nor will 
they — for that shrewd Canadian can, with a few feath- 
ers, some bits of silk and a hook, make, by the water- 
side, a " fly" which shall fall like a snow flake on the 
water, and be eagerly snapped at by some deluded 
member of the Fish family. That youth with a beard 
like those seen in Vandyke's pictures — and clad in 
blouse and belt, is doubtless an artist, on the lookout 
for " bits," " studies," " sky effects" and " distances." 
For a month or two he will wander along these shores, 
or on yonder mountains, and next winter we shall see 
in the Post, or Herald, such a notice as this. " We 
have just examined with much pleasure, a folio of 
magnificent views on Lake Memphremagog, drawn 
from nature, by our talented fellow citizen, Salvator 
Guido Claude Carmine Esq. They are far superior 
to the productions of Turner, Gainsborough, Horace 
Vernet, or any of the artists of the old world, and we 
hail them as a proof that American painters are supe- 
rior, even to the much vaunted old masters," &c., &c. 
The conceited looking young fellow who now and then 
pulls out a note-book and inserts a memorandum there- 
in, is a newspaper letter writer, who is prone to exag- 
gerate, and deals largely in superlatives. And the 
lady passengers ! There is among them a whole " bevy" 
of beauties — about seventeen young ladies, who with 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 17 

their Preceptress have come to see the lake ; a more 
charming party never danced on the deck of the Moun- 
tain Maid. But we have only time to describe one 
other personage, and this time, do so " with a purpose." 

Do you observe that individual with rather florid 
whiskers, who is strolling among the baggage and 
freight on the lower deck, assuming a look of uncon- 
cern, and yet quietly taking notice of everything ? He 
is not one of the crew, for he does not handle a rope 
or lend a hand to anybody ; he is not a passenger, for 
he looks, without betraying any interest at the 
scenery, and is not in tourist costume. He seems of a 
misanthropical turn of mind, for he speaks to no one ; 
but his want of words is amply made up for by the use 
of his eyes. They seem to penetrate boxes, barrels, 
bales and baskets. Is he meditating a larceny ? Does 
he intend to clandestinely abstract their contents ? By 
no means — he is literally and strictly in the path of 
" duty." He is a Custom House Officer. 

His presence tells a story. The Mountain Maid is 
now drawing near the boundary, or Province line of 
"Webster and Ashburton renown, which separates the 
United States from Canada — after passing which, be 
you Monarchist or Republican, you will assuredly have 
to pay " duty" to Queen Victoria's Government, if you 
have anything on which it can be levied — and you fail 
to hide it from that lynx-eyed official, who, however, 
is polite in the performance of his duty, and gives no 
unnecessary trouble. 



18 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Now just look to the land on your left, and you will 
observe a small farm-house ; that is the last dwelling 
in Yermont in this direction. A few rods from it is 
the small iron post which marks the identical spot 
which the Province line traverses ; glance to the right 
and you see that you are abreast of an island — through 
which also the line runs, and beyond this, far away, 
on the crest of the eastern hills, you may observe a gap 
through the woods, which indicates the course of the 
line in that direction. The iron post is quickly past, 
and we have exchanged the domains of Uncle Sam, 
for the dominions of Queen Victoria; we are in 
Canada ! 

Province Island is long, low, and covered for the 
most part with trees. It contains about 40 acres of 
excellent arable land, which are cultivated successfully, 
by Mr. Bavineau, a Frenchman, who, with his family, 
being the sole residents of the Island, is " Monarch of 
all he surveys." It does not often happen, that a man 
by walking a dozen steps, and in the space of half a. 
minute, can pass from the rule of a President to that 
of a Queen. Indeed, Farmer Bavineau can stand 
with one foot in the United States, and the other in the 
British dominions ; or at will, and at once, place him- 
self under the protection of the wing of the American 
Eagle, or the paw of the British Lion. 

Just beyond the " line" is Baker^s Landing' — from 
thence, still " hugging" the western shore, the Moun- 
tain Maid glides onward, while a constant succession 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 19 

of beauties on lake and land, charm and interest the 
beholder. The next landing is "Rollins'," which is 
situated at the foot of a remarkably steep declivity. 
Here the boat takes in wood, and not a little amuse- 
ment is afforded by the swarm of ragged little rascals 
who assist in this operation. 

The Mountain Maid, like all other Maidens, now be- 
comes somewhat capricious ; and turning her stern 
toward the eastern shore, crosses the lake diagonally, 
affording splendid opportunities of views, " ever charm- 
ing, ever new." The Owl's Head Mountain now looms 
up grandly, clad in its garniture of living green — its 
craggy head, seemingly craggier than ever. The deep 
gorge on the summit is now seen to great advantage, 
and passengers begin to speculate how far it may be 
across. Yarious opinions are given — the truth is, it is 
about 40 rods from ridge to ridge. Farther north is 
Mount Elephantis, (or Sugar Loaf) and Ridge Moun- 
tain ; and rising abruptly from the eastern bank. Basin 
Mountain. But on glides the steamer, and Harvey's 
handing^ situated at the entrance of East Bay, is 
reached. This bay which runs inland in a north-east- 
erly direction for nearly seven miles, is a little lake in 
itself, and a favorite fishing ground. By means of a 
creek near its northern end, it communicates with 
another sheet of water called Fitch Bay. 

Near the entrance of East Bay is an island called 
Whetstone, or Fitch'' s Island — (the latter named after a 
man who once claimed to own it.) This island is re- 



20 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

niarkable for a quarry of Novaculite, which may be 
seen like a yellow line, near the water's edge, on its 
western side. Of this Novaculite, capital whetstones 
can be made ; indeed, some years ago, the quarry was 
worked by a Company from Burke, who disposed of 
many tons of it annually. So excellent was it, that it 
almost drove the famous Turkey stone out of the mar- 
ket, and the Company were being amply remunerated, 
when from some cause or other, the British Govern- 
ment put a stop to the quarrying ; not however in or- 
der to monopolize the trade itself, for since the Burke 
Company were driven off, the Novaculite has remained 
undisturbed. This was, to say the least of it, a " Dog 
in the Manger" proceeding. A similar veto was put 
on mining on Owl's Head, of which more anon. 

Occasionally, when passengers wish to land, or em- 
bark there, the steamer crosses the mouth of East 
Bay to Magoon^s Point, a spur of land which derives 
its name from a farmer who resides on it. This place 
has of late, attracted some attention, from the fact of 
there I jcing an unexplored cavern in its vicinity, in which 
cave, it is asserted, a considerable amount of treasure 
is concealed. It is said that many years ago a Roman 
Catholic Chapel in Canada, (we believe at a place 
called St.. Francis,) was plundered of its treasures, 
and that the robbers concealed their booty here. We 
are credibly informed that persons are now living, who 
saiv two massive gold candlesticks which were found 
in or near the cave, buried in sand. Several unsuc- 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 21 

cessful attempts have been made to explore this mys- 
terious place — but it is gravely declared that every 
daring individual who descended and penetrated but a 
little way, came back in a state of the utmost alarm, 
having " heard fearful noises and felt like being chok- 
ed," a phenomena which would be easy of explanation 
by any schoolboy who had but slightly studied acous- 
tics and chemistry — since echoes and carbonic acid gas 
would produce precisely similar effects. We hear that 
explorations on a large scale are to be made this sum- 
mer, (1859,) and only hope that the laborers in this 
Magog " diggin" will be more fortunate than the san- 
guine gentlemen who sought to lay their " appropria- 
tion claws" on the treasures of the late gallant Cap- 
tain Kidd. 

On leaving Harvey's Landing, the Mountain Maid 
returns to her " old love," the western shore, and zig- 
zagging it in a slant direction, northwards, directs her 
course towards, as it would seem, the base of Owl's 
Head. The mountain now looks grander than ever ; 
dwarfing, as it does, all its surrounding brethren. We 
can now see the grey walls or ledges of rock which 
stripe it transversely ; seemingly impossible to scale, 
and ravines and gorges of vast magnitude. About a 
mile and a half off, on our left, is Round Island, 
to be spoken of presently. As yet, there are no signs 
of any " House of Entertainment" — but before long 
a wharf with two flag staffs, a pretty summer house, 
like a Kiosk — the roof of a dwelling — and then its 



22 MEMPHREMAGOa. 

front, appears. In a few moments more, we have left 
Harvey's Landing four miles behind us, and stand on 
the very convenient wharf of the Mountain House, 
where we are welcomed by the Proprietor, Mr. A. C. 
Jennings, who, as former Landlord of the St. Johns- 
bury House, Island Pond Hotel, and other first rate 
Establishments, we had long and favorably known. 
Here let us remain for a few days, for this is the Para- 
disaic portion of the lake — if where all is " beautiful 
exceedingly," such a term can be fitly applied. On 
glides the Mountain Maid, which we have ungallant- 
ly abandoned ; but she has plenty to flirt with her 
in our absence, and is of so forgiving a nature, that 
the paltry sum of a dollar, or less, will induce her by 
and by, to receive us on our former (deck) footing. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 23 



CHAPTER III. 

The Mountain House — Island Scenery — The Palisades 
Bathing' Place — Balance Rock — Skinner^ s Cave 
and its Legend. 

The Owl's Head Mountain House is delightfully sit- 
uated on the wertern shore of the lake. It stands in 
a natural Amphitheatre, on a picturesque little plateau 
at the base of Owl's Head, very near the margin of 
the waters. A neat and very convenient plank path- 
way extends from the front of the house to the lake, 
and on a wharf at its further end, passengers land as 
easily as possible. On a rocky knoll is a picturesque 
summer house ; and back of this a miniature moun- 
tain, from whose top exquisite views are commanded. 
On the south side of the house are flower gardens — 
rural walks, and rocky pathways ; and on the north, a 
lovely little inlet with a shingly beach called Sherman^ s 
Baijy. in compliment to the lady Preceptress, who with 
her charming pupils, visited the house last summer. 
Between this bay and the house is a bridle path which 
leads to the summit of Owl's Head. Towering grand- 
ly above all, is the Mountain itself, a brief account of 
which we will give presently. 



24 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Taking our post of observation in the little summer 
pavilion before referred to, a glorious prospect bursts 
upon the eye. Immediately in front rises the Basin 
Mountain to a height of some 12 or 1500 feet, and en- 
tirely covered with foliage. Stretching grandly away, 
north and south, the lake is bounded by lofty moun- 
tains, verdant slopes, and bold headlands. From this 
point, also five islands are visible. Directly in front, 
and distant about two miles, is Skinner's Island ; a 
very little to the north of it is Long Island ; between 
Skinner's and the main land, is Minnow Island; a 
mile and a half distant on our right is Round Island, 
and southwards. Province Island, already described. 
All these are within a morning boat-ride of the house, 
and each possesses attractions peculiar to itself. Sup- 
pose we make our first boat trip to Long Island. 

As its name implies, its length is considerably great- 
er than its breadth — the former being about one and a 
half miles, the latter not half a mile. This Island 
is covered thickly with trees, and is chiefly remarkable 
for its bold, rocky shores. Near its northern end, on 
its western side, are some perpendicular rocks named 
the Palisades, from their resemblance, on a small scale, 
to those of the same name on the River Hudson. 
These are well worthy a visit. Not far from these is a 
beautiful, safe, and sheltered natural bathing place. 
The shores on the eastern side are very romantic, and 
to a geologist, highly interesting. As for an artist, he 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 



25 



might go into fits (of entliusiasm) on beholding the 
" rock studies" which abound here. 

But the " lion" of Long Island, is the Balance Rock. 




Balance Rock. 



On the ridge of a granite rock, which slopes towards 
the water, stands another huge mass of granite, weigh- 
ing many tons, and resting only a single point or j^ivot, 
in the same manner as does the celebrated Logan 
rocking stone in Cornwall, England. This one, how- 
ever, does not move. How it got into its present po- 
sition is purely a matter of conjecture. Some suppose 
it to have been brought on ice, which, thawing, depos- 
ited it there. Others imagine the waters of the lake 
were once higher than now, and that when receding, 
winds and storms washed away the earth which might 
have surrounded its base. We profess to hold no 



26 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

opinion on the subject, and leave the geologist to look 
to it. A curious tree grows close to, and leans over 
the stone, giving it much the appearance, at a distance, 
or in the gray of the evening, of a sarcophagus, and a 
familiar emblem. To be sure, one has to imagine the 
drooping branches of the willow ; but as we all know, 
fancy is a very fertile artist, and can accomplish won- 
ders. 

Leaving the Balance Rock behind us, we now row 
to the northern end of Skinner's Island, which is not 
of so great extent as Long Island, but equally pic- 
turesque. It, too, has its " lion" in the shape of a 
Cave on its western side, close to its northern extrem- 
ity. This is a very favorite resort for visitors, and is 
easily reached, it being little more than a mile from 
the Mountain House, from which it can be plainly 
seen. Nearly all such places as these have their le- 
gends, and Skinner's Cave is no exception to the al- 
most general rule. But before we relate it, let us say 
that the Cave is close to the water on the island side, 
is about 10 feet wide at the entrance, from 12 to 14 
feet high, and extends into the rock a distance of some 
80 feet, narrowing from the outside until the two walls 
of the cave meet at the end. 

Here then is the legend of Skinner's Cave, which 
a friend of ours has " done" into rhyme. It is neces- 
sary to preface it with a little plain prose, to render 
the verse intelligible. In the year 1812, during the 
last American war with England, smuggling was car- 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 27 

ried on to a great extent on Lake Memphremagog. A 
determined attempt was made by both the belligerent 
parties to put the illegal traffic down, and one after 
another, all the smugglers were captured but a certain 
daring dealer in contraband articles, named Uriah 
Skinner. This worthy baffled the ingenuity of the 
Custom Officers for a long time, but was at last — stay 
— you shall hear, dear reader, all about it presently. 
After a rather florid description of the lake, our rhym- 
ing friend proceeds as follows, in his ruse, which he 
calls 



The Bold Smuggler of Magog. 



In a certain part of this exquisite sheet 
Of water, the " States" and " East Canada" meet, 
Here, though you can't see it, the " boundary line" 
Of Webster and Ashburton passes ; in fine, 
One-third of the lake's in Vermont, at the least. 
The other two-thirds are in Canada East; 
The reader must fail not to understand this, 
Or the point of the story he'll certainly miss. 



Let the reader imagine an Eden-like scene ; 
Mountains robed to their summits in drapery of green,. 



28 MEMPHKEMAGOG. 

With three miles of calm and blue water between, 
And then he will possibly know what I mean : 
And the name of this lake, on whose shores neither bog 
Nor flat shores are seen, is this, 

MEMPHREMAGOG! 

A queer word to pronounce just at first, but it slips 

In a very short time smoothly over the lips ; 

The rhyme forced me to mention the " bog," when I say 

You'll be right if you will but the emphasis lay 

On one vowel alone — I refer to the A, 

And you'll certainly then, not be out of the way. 



On this beautiful lake many islands are found — 

There is " Skinners" and " Long" — " Province" — "Minnow' 

and " Round" — 
On the Jirst, will the scene of this legend be found. 



When war's dogs are slipped — there is plenty of juggling. 
And, among other kinds of rascality — smuggling ; 
On Lake Memphremagog, such practice was " fine," 
For across it, you know, runs the old Province Line ; 
And to dare-devil men 'twas not hard in the least, 
From Vermont to slip into Canada East : 
Of course, as most matters have two sides, we here see 
A similar feat might be done vice versa. 



Now, had /such a pen 
As has one of those men, 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 29 



Messrs. Eeynolds or Cobb — or Ned Buntline, wliy then 
I'd all of these smugglers of Magog describe ; 
As I've not, I'll take one as a type of the tribe ! 



Fancy a fellow, brawny and brown, 

With very black hair that hangs shaggily down, 

With whiskers remarkably bushy and black, 

With fists which might give a most terrible thwack ; 

With very fierce eyes under dark heavy brows. 

That flashed like a cat's when it springs on a mouse, 

Or like coals in a cavern that gleam fiery red. 

With a great roman nose, so uncommonly red. 

That whenever he washed it ('twas seldom) I wis. 

The water would certainly bubble and hiss ! 

With a mouth, firm, compressed, and much prone to a sneer. 

With a purple scar stretching from chin unto ear ; 

With a huge dagger stuck in the belt round his waist, 

And five or six pistols beside it placed ; 

With a heavy cutlass not long nor pliant. 

Such as little " Jack" used when he slaughtered the " Giant," 

With great heavy boots — and as heavy a purse. 

With a tongue that scarce wagged but it uttered a curse ! 

Fierce as a tiger — as cruel as Nero — 

Fancy all these, and you'll picture my hero ; 

Whose name^ for fame has preserved the same. 

Was Uriah Skinner, who'd always on hand 

Plenty of articles contraband. 



Of all the Smugglers who plied on the lake, 
Uriah Skinner was hardest to take ; 



30 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

The officers hunted him often, and yet 
Uriah Skinner they never could get ! 
For if his boat they e'er chanced to have sight of. 
He vanished, as 'twere, and was speedily right off, 
Like the Flying Dutchman, he seemed to melt 
Into mist ; so that some who pursued him, felt 
Inclined to believe he had something to do 
With a certain dark gentleman — you know who ! 



The pitcher may often go to the well. 
Yet at last be broken ; so it befell 
In the case of Uriah — for that bold chap 
Was caught at last like a rat in a trap ! 



Night on the lake, so clear and calm. 

The night breeze sings in the pines its psalm ; 

Stars shine bright in the dark blue sky. 

And the crescent moon sails in her glory on high : 

Above and below, it is all serene, 

Who, as he gazed on the peaceful scene 

At that moment, would fancy that nine or ten 

Very keen-sighted, and well-armed men. 

Motionless, and still as the dead, 

Were ambushed under the great Owl's Head ? 

And their ears were open as well as their eyes, 

Listening and looking alike for a prize ; 

There they watched to catch the first glimpse or note 

Of Skinner, expected that night in his boat. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 31 

" Look — don't you see ! 

That, Skinner must be !" 
Oh, Skinner ! bold smuggler ! there's peril for thee ! 
For down to the shore with leap and bound, 
The officers rush — as goes a blood-hound 
On a fugitive's track when the scent is found ! 
The boat is manned, and they're off the next minute, 
They see Skinner's boat, and Uriah S. in it ; 
Now the chase grows eager and hot. 
And Skinner himself thinks so too, I wot. 
For his boat speeds over the waters blue. 
Swiftly as flieth an Indian's canoe. 
And he has an Indian's craftiness too ; 
Now they near him — now they are on 
His heels as it were — and now — He is gone ! 



But where ? 

How they stare 

And rave and swear ! 
And how — here, there, and everywhere. 
The island they search — for they think, like the deer 
Who leaves the forest and takes to the floods, 
The smuggler has quitted the lake for the woods ! 
But all they find is the empty boat, 
Which one of the officers pushes afloat : 
The fruitless search they at length give o'er. 
And Uriah Skinner was never seen more ! 
'Tis said, that one of the officers swore, 
A strong brimstone odor pervaded the shore ? 
And another averred that he saw Skinner go 
In the clutch of old Nick, to the regions below. 



82 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Nearly six years had passed away, 
When a Fisherman out in a storm one day, 
Was very near making an awful plunge 
To become a meal for the pickerel or longe ; 
But through the mist, gazing eager-eyed, 
In the side of an island, a cave he spied, 
And in less than a minute, was safe inside. 



Very soon passed the storm, and then, 

Ere he prepared to go fishing again. 

He looked above, beneath, and around. 

And what do you think the fisherman found ? 

Neither a golden nor silver prize. 

But a skull with sockets where once were eyes ; 

Also some bones of arms and thighs. 

And a vertebral column of giant size : 

How they got there, he couldn't devise, 

For he'd only been used to common-place graves, 

And knew nought of " organic remains" in caves : 

On matters like those, his wits were dull. 

So he dropped the subject as well as the skull. 



'Tis needless to say 

In this later day, 
*Twas the smuggler's bones in the cave, that lay : 
All I've to add is — the bones in a grave 
Were placed, and the cavern was called " Skinner's Cave. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 



83 




Skinner's Cave. 



Between Skinner's Island and the main land, is 
Minnow or Minnie Island, perhaps the latter name 
refers to its diminutive dimensions. Close to, and ar- 
round it is the great fall seining place, thousands of 
fish being taken from the lake at this place, every year. 

Standing on the rocks in front of the Mountain 
House, an excellent view of Round Island is obtained, 
and certainly, it is one of the most beautiful objects on 
the lake. On a calm day, the effects of light and 
shadow are exquisite. In a photograph by Messrs. 
Gage & Rowell, of St. Johnsbury, (which may be 
bought at the Mountain House,) these effects are 
most happily preserved. Nothing can be more per- 
fect than this view, which, whether as it regards foliage, 
rock, water or island, is first-rate of its class. Round 



84 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Island is only a mile and a half from the house, and 
a very pleasant boat ride will give an excellent appetite 
for the remarkable quantity of berries of various de- 
scriptions, for which it is remarkable. 




Bound Isiand. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 85 



CHAPTER IV. 

Ascent of OwVs Head — Maxims for Mountaineers — 
Picturesque Rocks — The Old Field — Fern Hollow 
— The Toll Gate — Crinoline Chamber — Half-ivay 
Log — Moses^ Rock — The Staircases — Refreshment 
Holloiu — Vieivsfrom Summit — A Fish Story — Novel 
Descent. 



And now, having visited all the islands, suppose we 
ascend the Owl's Head Mountain, and atone bird's eye 
glance, observe, as a whole, scenes which we have been 
describing in detail, as well as countless attractions 
besides. A few maxims for " Mountaineers," may be 
in place here. 

Ladies — even though it should cost you a parting 
pang, when preparing for the upward trip, abandon 
crinoline and hoop — and don't dress yourself as Villi- 
kin's Dinah was ordered to — " in gorgeous array." 
The worse your attire, the better you will feel. Wear 
stout shoes or boots ; if damp weather, rubbers ; and 
should you have a Bloomer Costume, put it on by all 
means, for in some parts of the ascent, you will " bless 
your stars, and think it luxury" — at least you'll find 
it amazingly convenient. 



36 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 



Provide yourself with a staff some five feet long, a 
little sharp at the lower end; something in fact, like 
the Swiss Alpenstock which is shod with iron ; this, 
however, is only necessary where ice has to be crossed, 
and such is not the case here. 

Do not be in a hurry when you set out ; take it 
coolly at first ; you will experience the great benefit of 
thus husbanding your strength when you get half way 
up, where it will be most needed. 

Carry with you some biscuits or sandwiches, and a 
little tin cup for water — there are several springs on 
the way up. 

These maxims are for ladies ; as for the " sterner 
and stronger" (?) sex, they must get on or up as they 
best can, without advice from us. 




Owl's H.aa.d Moantaln. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 87 



ASCENT OF OWL'S HEAD. 



A direction post on the north side of the Mountain 
House, indicates the path to the summit. For a little 
way the course is tolerably level, but after about ten 
minutes walking, the ascent commences in earnest. 
On either side the path is bounded by woods, where 
the wild bird sings and the squirrel gambols undis- 
turbed. Before long, you perceive before and above 
you, a singular rock of very large size, projecting over 
the path from the right hand side. This is called 
Shelter Rock ; a name not altogether inappropriate, as 
a large party might find refuge from a shower, beneath 
its overhanging portion. We may here mention that 
Owl's Head is remarkable for its picturesque rocks. 
A very eminent landscape painter remarked to us last 
summer, that he had never, anywhere else, met with 
such excellent " studies," in this respect, for an artist. 
Not far beyond " Shelter," is High Rock — a huge mass 
of stone crowned with plumy ferns, and half clad with 
the greenest moss. A little brook of the purest water 
is soon reached — it is this stream which supplies the 
fish pond below. The rivulet crossed, after a rather 
steep " grade," you hear the .tinkle of cow-bells, and 
suddenly enter a large open space, almost circular in 
shape and nearly level. After the brisk climbing, the 
pathway through the Old Field, as it is termed, is a 
pleasant change enough. You may, if you choose, 
loiter and pick berries — mulberries, blackberries, rasp- 
berries &c., and wild flowers, which are very abundant. 



38 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Here you have a fine view of one of tlie mountain 
ledges, wliich if you are a sketclier, you will not fail 
to transfer to your portfolio. Nor will the " Amphi- 
theatre of woods," also visible here, be without its at- 
tractions. A " sugar camp" is next passed — in other 
words, a maple grove ; and then we arrive at a circu- 
lar sort of basin named Fern Holloiu — the said basin 
being quite covered with those plants. Still ascend- 
ing, we get to Fern Rock, where a botanist might long 
luxuriate. The way now becomes pretty steep, but if 
you halt occasionally to recover breath, you may use 
your eyes as well as rest your lungs, for there are plen- 
ty of objects worthy attention. For instance, here is 
Bircli Rock. On the steep hill-side above you are two 
large, oblong granite rocks — their ends being placed so 
close together that there does not appear room to place 
a finger's point between. Yet in that fissure is suffic- 
ient earth to nourish a fine birch tree, which seems to 
rise from, and grow out of the lower stone. Chester 
Rock (named after a very intelligent boy guide) is a 
huge mass of limestone partly covered with moss, and 
crowned with white pine. Onward and upward we go, 
until we are brought to a stand at the Toll- Gate, 
where it is by no means an unusual thing to find a toll- 
keeper also. This Toll-Gate is formed by two large 
rocks, from whose upper surface trees spring upwards, 
and between which, there is just room for one very 
stout, or two very slim persons to walk abreast. Hoops 
have no chance here, unless the circles are changed 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 39 

into ovals, or elipsis. We have known ladies who 
were compelled to retire to a leafy bower, hard by, 
called Crinoline Chamber, and divest themselves of 
their " hindrances," for a Camel may as well attempt 
to go through the eye of a needle, as a fashionably 
dressed lady to get through the Toil-Gate. This per- 
ilous '' pass" having been accomplished, the next ob- 
ject of attraction is the Chair Rock, from whose sum- 
mit the first view of the lake during the ascent, is ob- 
tained. Beyond this is Half-iuay Log, Avhere we had 
better rest ; and while we do so, let us state that away 
to our right, and below us, is one of the most remark- 
able " bits" of scenery on the mountain ; though as it 
lies out of the main pathway, but comparatively few 
stumble on it, except by accident. It may, though, be 
easily reached from the Mountain "House, in half an 
hour. It is a bold escarpment of rock, forming part 
of the lower of the two ledges which runs across the 
mountain's eastern side. Two huge walls of limestone 
meeting in a V shape, enclose near their bases, a trian- 
gular platform, some 12 feet from the ground, on which 
grow grass and wild flowers. Beneath this verdant 
shelf is a solid rock, near the centre of the face of 
which, is a small orifice about the size of a goose-quill, 
from which a stream of the purest water perpetually 
flows. How far this natural conduit extends cannot 
be known. It is a natural curiosity, which would be 
well worth a visit, even were it not for the grandeur 
of the rocks which tower hidi above it. 



40 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

But by this time wo have rested, and are now ready 
for the " tug" of war. Now are to come the "pinches" 
as the guides say. Here is the first of them — Break- 
neck Stairs. Do not be alarmed at the name, no one 
ever dislocated their cervical vertebra) there that we 
are aware of; nor have we, for already we have sur- 
mounted them with sculls as well supported as ever. 
More stairs ! Yes — those Ave now arrive at arc named 
after an '' inferior" portion of the frame. Let us buck- 
le to, and try Weary-toe Steps. Not so bad though, 
as the name seems to imply, but the necessity of using 
our pedal extremities, does make them ache a trifle, 
thats a fact ! Next come Jennings'' Staircase , and 
Winding Staircase^ and then Eefreshment Holloiu, 
where your little tin can will be found useful in con- 
veying water from the spring to your lips. Somewhat 
refreshed, we now set out for Spruce Tree Steps — the 
roots of those trees forming the stairs. Then comes 
Fountain Ravine, where you will find a little fountain 
right in the pathway. The next ascent is named after 
a curious birch tree on the right. Courage — we are 
getting near the summit ! Shamrock Rock and the Gi- 
ant's Staircase are " done," and clear of the forests, 
we stand on the summit of Owl's Head — nearly 3000 
feet above the waters of Memphremagog. 

As we rest on one of the crags, a pair of Eagles are 
seen sailing in the air far below us ; their rich brown 
plumage and bald white heads gleaming in the sun- 
shine. They build on some of the inaccessible crags 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 41 

about here. Falcons of many varieties make their 
liomes on the ledges below. Fish Hawks, a species of 
Ospray, too, are common. Last summer, we saw one 
of these birds strike a ^arge fisli in the lake, opposite 
the Mountain House — a fish too large for the winged 
angler to carry off after it had killed it. Mr. Jennings 
despatched a boat to the scene of slaughter, from 
which the Ospray sulkily wheeled away, and a fine 
&had of four pounds weight smoked on our breakfast 
tabic next morning. It is not every landlord who has 
a bird to provide fish for his guests. 

The prospect from Owl's Head summit is magnifi- 
cent beyond description. On clear days, Montreal can 
be distinctly seen. Looking south you see Clyde, Bar- 
ton and Black Rivers, Newport, all the islands on the 
lake, and the lake itself from end to end. To the 
north, Durham's Point, Dewey's Point, Knowlton Bay, 
the Outlet, Orford Mountain, and countless other ob- 
jects. To the east, Seymour Lake, Stanstead Plain, 
Rock Island, Salem Pond, Charleston Pond, Derby 
Centre, Derby line, Willoughby Lake, White Moun- 
tains, Little Magog, Massawippee Lake, Georgeville, 
&c. To the west, the continuation of the Green 
Mountain Range. To the north-west, the Sugar Loaf 
and Ridge Mountain, Broome Lake, North and South 
Troy, Mansonville, and a mile and a half of wilder- 
ness stretching from the base of Owl's Head. These 
are but a few of the objects discernable ; we have not 
space to mention a tithe of them. But let us exam- 



42 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

iiie the sTimrnit itself. As might be expected from its 
appearance from below, it is all split up, or riven into 
gorges and ravines, from which four distinct peaks as- 
cend. In one of these ravines is the FreeiJiason's 
Lodge, so named from the fact that the Golden Rule 
Lodge of Stanstead, hold a lodge there once a year, on 
the 24th of June. It is a spot well calculated for ex- 
ercising the mysteries of the craft. On a triangular 
rock are painted the compass and square, and below 
that masonic emblem the following inscription : 

GOLDEN RULE LODGE, 

No. 8, Freemasons of Stanstead, held a Communica- 
tion here Sept. 10, A. L. '57 and '58. 

R. W. Brother E. Gustin, D. D., G. M., V. W. 
B. W. Rev. H. J. Machin, W. M. 
" E. B. Gustin, P. M. 
" E. B. Rider, " 
" A. Bodwell, " 

" S. Kingsbury, T. I. M. 
" C. B. Baxter. 
" E. H. Fennessy. 
'' N. Bachelder. 

A. C. Hall. 

C. S. Channell. 
" A. S. Gove. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 43 

The descent of the Mountain is comparatively easy. 
It is remarkable that although so many persons of both 
sexes have ascended the mountain, no serious acci- 
dents have happened ; indeed such need not occur, if 
but common care be taken. A few months since, how- 
ever, a man named Sabine, had a narrow escape. Near, 
or rather on the summit is a place called the DevWs 
Slide. Down this, a party of three determined to go, 
on their way home ; two were in port, and these were 
not a little astounded and dismayed by seeing their 
companion suddenly shoot by them and suddenly dis- 
appear over a ledge, sheer 30 feet deep. He had set 
out running to overtake his friends and could not stop 
himself. They of course expected to find him dead 
and mangled, and cautiously picking their way over the 
loose stones, at length reached him at the foot of an- 
other precipice, sixty feet deep, lying face downward, on 
a bed of broken rocks ! Sabine had struck a rocky shelf 
after his first descent, and bounding off, ball like, went 
over the second — 90 feet in all. His friends finding 
him motionless, and to all appearance dead, suggested 
the propriety of getting assistance to take down the 
body, for " poor fellow, he'^s gone" said one of them. 
No sooner were the word's uttered, however, than Sa- 
bine first lifted one leg, then his head, and said coolly, 
" Come along boys, this is the quickest way down !" 
The poor fellow was a good deal hurt, but no bones 
were broken, and with assistance he descended. A 
fortnight's care set him to rights again. We said, the 



44 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

place he shot from was called Devil's Slide, but as 
there is no record of that sable gentleman's havmg 
performed such an extraordinary feat of " ground and 
lofty tumbling," as Mr. Sabine did — the latter is clearly 
entitled to have his name substituted for Satan's, and 
accordingly Sabine's leap has quite superseded the dia- 
bolic appellation. 

The mineral riches of Owl's Head have been but im- 
perfectly developed. Some years ago, Indians used to 
dig there for lead, and in later times, some white people 
also commenced workings ; but, as in the case of the 
Novaculite, the Government stepped in and stopped 
proceedings. The Mountain was also the scene of a 
hoax, by some scamp who pretended to have had spir- 
itual revelations concerning mineral riches there, and 
who duped not a few credulous noodles. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 45 



CHAPTER V. 

Perkins\ Landing- — Trout Rock — Cedar Point — Mount 
Elephantis— Ridge Mountain— Concert Pond— Good 
News for Trout-takers— Knowlton's Landing— Gib- 
raltar Point — Georgeville — Tlie Sea Serpent — 
Mount Orford — Magog Outlet — Indian Anecdote. 

Once more Ave are aboard the Mountain Maid, with 
our faces turned northward ; but, before we leave the 
wharf, let us pay a well deserved compliment to Mr. 
Jennings, whose Mountain House is really a Model 
Hotel. Every thing is done to promote the comfort of 
the guests, and the charges are most moderate. A 
gentleman who had sojourned tlierc two summers, 
declared that mosquitoes were things unknown in that 
locality ; he had never seen but one, and that he sus- 
pected came passenger on the boat from Newport. His 
statement we have had ample corroboration of. The 
only " Varmint" we saw there, was a dead Bear, which 
had been killed in the woods, back of the Mountain, 
and very nice eating Master Bruin proved to be. Only 
fancy, no mosquitoes, no snakes, no hot nights ! Who 
would not summer it in such an Eden ?" 

Proceeding north, we keep the western shore, and 



46 



MEMPHREMAGOG 



glide by some magnificent mountain sides, torwards 
Perkins^ Landings enjoying a fine echo, as we fire off 
our guns and pistols. We pass Trout Rock, which 
rises from the deepest part of the lake, aslo Cedar 
Point. After leaving Perkins', which lies in a pretty 
bay, turn and view Owl's Head from thence ; seen 
from the south, its head appeared rounded and jagged ; 
from this point it is sharp, peaked, and rises cone-like. 
It is incomparably the finest and most imposing view 
of this Monarch of the lake. Before you, and to the 
left, is the next most remarkable Mountain in this 
region — Mount Elephantis, or as it is sometimes called 
Sugar Loaf, The former is doubtless, most correct. 




Wt. Elephantis. 

Every one will at once discover the resemblance to 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 4T 

an Elephant's head and back, which its upper part 
presents. Between this and the next, Ridge Mountain^ 
is a singular sheet of water, Concert Pond, which lies 
far above the level of the lake. It abounds with delic- 
ious Mountain Trout, (pink-fleshed.) How they got 
there is the question, for there is, we are told, no per- 
ceptible inlet to, or outlet from the pond, which is 
easily reached by an hour's walk from Perkins', or 
Knoiulton's Landing, which is the next reached. This 
is situated at the entrance of KnoioUon^s Bay, an arm 
of the lake, which stretches inland for a considerable 
distance. Just after leaving Knowlton's, the Boat pass- 
es Gibraltar Point, a bold headland, crowned with 
trees, and picturesque in every respect. Here is the 
place to see artist passenger out with pencil and sketch- 
book. Nearly opposite Knowlton's, on the eastern 
shore, is Geobgeville, which we are now approaching. 

It is a pretty, rural village, and a favorite stopping 
place for artists and anglers. It contains, being a 
Port of Entry, a Custom House, has a school, one or 
two stores, some handsome dwellings, chief among 
which is the Villa of Captain Fogg, and two hotels, 
one, the Memphremagog House, at which is the Post 
Office kept by Mr. E. S. Channell, and the other, the 
Union House, kept by Mr. L. Bigelow — both are ex- 
tremely comfortable establishments. 

On the beach, near George ville, very beautiful and 
perfect crystals of quartz are found ; geologists would 
find here a rich field for their investigations. The fish- 



48 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

ing opposite llie Tillage, for longc, is not to be surpassed, 
and the woods near, abound with game. The lovers of 
the marvelous will be perhaps glad to know that the 
Sea Serpent occasionally shows itself somewhere in this 
locality — that mysterious fish-reptile, being by some, 
supposed to visit the lake through a hole in its deepest 
part, and to return by the same subteranean, or sub- 
aqueous channel, when it desires, for the benefit of its 
health, to exchange fresh water for salt. We were 
solemnly assured by one gentleman, that he had actu- 
ally seen the "critter" — possibly he believed he did — 
but if Faith can remove Mountains, manufacturing a 
Sea Serpent must be about as easy as making a Mer- 
maid, according to the ingenious Mr. Barnum's recipe. 
The stage road ride from Georgeville to the outlet 
is very delightful, and no tourist should fail to hire one 
of Mr. Channell's teams, and enjoy it. 



-^ 




Mt. Orford. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 49 

Leaving Georgeville, we now cross the lake in a "slan- 
tindicular" direction — Mount Orford^ the highest land 
in Canada East, rising grandly before us in the distance. 
This Mountain is 3,300 feet high, and is surrounded at 
its base with a wide belt of forest. It is a favorite 
camping ground for sportsmen, all kinds of game being 
found there in plenty. The lake, narrowed at George- 
ville, now again widens, and Lord's Island lies before 
us. The next landing is Paig-e's, from whence we again 
cross the lake diagonally, and soon arrive at the ter- 
mination of our Lake Trip — Magog Village^ or the Out- 
let^ as it is more generally termed. 

Here a stage will be found in waiting to convey pas- 
sengers to Sherbrooke, some fifteen miles distant, where 
is a depot of the Grand Trunk Railroad, in the cars 
of which, Montreal of Quebec may be reached the 
same evening. On the road to Sherbrooke, Little Ma- 
gog Lake is passed, but it possesses no features of pecu- 
liar interest. 

The village of Magog is but small. It contains a 
Catholic Church, a good hotel, kept by Mr. Buck, some 
stores, a Post Office, and some extensive saw mills, 
the water privilege caused by the fall at the outlet of the 
lake, being very fine. Here the Mountain Maid remains 
for an hour or two, before her return trip, affording 
passengers an opportunity to stroll, or dine. 

Magog was once a strong-hold of the Indians, and a 
rather interesting story was related to us by one of the 
" oldest inhabitants," who had received it traditionally.. 



50 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

and doubted not of its truth. A young and handsome 
warrior of the Tribe had committed some offence for 
which death was the inevitable punishment. He ad- 
mitted the justice of his sentence ; but only asked one 
favor. It was that he might be permitted to visit an 
aged father many miles distant, on his promising to 
return on the day fixed for his death. His request was 
granted, and the young " bravo" departed. Some 
months elapsed, and the time of the appointed tortur- 
ing process drew near ; but all felt sure that the unfor- 
tunate youth's word would be kept, and it was ; pre- 
cisely on the day, at the hour appointed, he marched 
into the circle of wigwams, and merely saying " I am 
ready," gave himself up a willing offerhig to the offended 
justice of his Tribe. Occasionally stone arrow heads 
and other Indian relics are dug up at Magog, as they 
are also at Owl's Head. 



/^ A list (necessarily incomplete,) of some of the prin- 
cipal animals, birds, fishes, and reptiles, to be found in 
Lake Memphremagog, and in its vicinity, may not be 
uninteresting : — 

ANIMALS. 

Deer, Bears, Foxes, Squirrels, (various,) Hares, Rab- 
bits, Woodchuck, Beaver. 



MEMPHREMAftOG. 51 

BIRDS. 

Eagles, (various,) Falcons, (various,) Hawks, Gulls, 
Pigeons, Loon, Duck, Partridge, Snipe, Woodcock, 
Brant, Geese. 



FISHES. 

Longe, Pickerel, Shadwaiters, Eels, Rock Bass, Cat- 
Fish, Suckers, Trout. 



REPTILES. 

Common Green Snake, Black Snake, Chicken Snake, 
Garter Snake, Toads, Frogs, — (there are no known 
venomous reptiles — that we are aware of.) 



GEOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 

For the Geological Characteristics of the lake shores, 
we refer the reader to the respective reports of Profes- 
sor Hitchcock, and Sir William Logan. Details of 
such would be quite out of place in a brochure, such 
as this. 



52 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

CLIMATE. 

No climate can be more salubrious than that on and 
about Lake Memphremagog. Tempests are but seldom 
experienced, and the air is pure and bracing. The vi- 
cinity of the lake always ensures a sufficiency of mois- 
ture in the atmosphere. The Summers are cool, and 
the Winters far milder than in Boston or New York. 



Principal Hotels in the chief Cities, Towns and 
Villages on the route to or from Memphremagog. 

New York. — St. Nicholas, Metropolitan, Astor, Ev- 
erett House, Claredon, &c., &c. 

Boston. — Revere, Tremont, American House, Park- 
er's, Marlboro'. 

Springfield. — Massasoit House, American House. 

Lowell. — Merrimack House, American House. 

Concord. — Phcenix, Eagle, Gass's American House. 

White River Junction. — Junction House. 

Newbury. — Newbury House, Spring Hotel. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 58 

St. Johnsbury. — St. Johnsbury House. 

Barton. — Barton Hotel. 

Newport. — Memphremagog House. 

Quebec. — Russell's Hotel. 

Montreal. — St. Lawrence Hall, Ottawa House, Mon- 
treal House. 

Sherbrooke. — Sherbrooke House, Cheney's Hotel. 

Portland. — American House, Walnut Street House. 



EOUTE TABLE. 

From Boston, via. Boston and Maine, Concord, 
Manchester, and Lawrence, Boston, Concord and Mon- 
treal Railroad, and Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers 
Railroad to Barton. Station, Haymarket Square, 
Boston. 

From Boston, via. Boston and Lowell, Nashua 
and Lowell, Concord, Northern and Connecticut and 
Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, up the valleys of the 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers, to Barton. Sta- 
tion, Causeway Street, Boston. 



54 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Trains leave Boston by both routes at 7.30 A. M., 
12 M., and 5 o'clock, P. M. 

Passengers taking 7.30 A. M. train, reach the lake the 
same evening ; those taking 12 M. train, lodge at White 
River Junction ; those taking 5 P. M., train, lodge at 
Concord, and reach the lake the next evening. 

Distance from Boston to Lake Memphremagog. 
Railroad, - - - . 232 
Stage, 14 



246 Miles. 
Fare 17.50. 



From New York, by railroad, via. New Haven, 
Hartford, Springfield and Bellows Falls. Station, 
27th Street. 

Trains leave at 8 o'clock, A. M., and 4 o'clock, P. 
M. Passengers from New York, at 8 o'clock, A. M., 
can stop over night at Hartford, Springfield, or North- 
ampton, or any other point above Hartford, and reach 
the lake the next evening, at a seasonable hour. 

Passengers leaving New York at 4 o'clock, P. M., 
can stop at the same places over night, and reach the 
lake as soon as by leaving at 8 o'clock, A. M. 

Dine at White River Junction ; tea at Barton. 



MEMPHREMAGOG. 55 

Distance from New York to Lake Memphremagog. 
Railroad, - - - - 352 
Stage, - - - - - 14 



366 Miles. 



Fare, 110.25. 



WHITE AND FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS 

TO 

LAKE MEMPHREMAGOa. 

Leave the White Mountains at 6 o'clock, A. M. 
" " Franconia " " 7 o'clock, A. M. 

By Stage, to Littleton, thence by White Mountains 
Railroad to Wells River, dine at the Coossuck House, or 
Newbury, at which latter village are the " Sulphur 
Springs," and two good Hotels ; arriving at 10.30 A. 
M., tourists can dine, take the up train of the Con- 
necticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, at 3. 45 P. M., 
sup at Barton, thence by stage to the lake the same 
evening. Tickets and reliable information can be 
had of the Agent of the Connecticut and Passumpsic 
Rivers Railroad at the White Mountains, and the Fran- 
conia Mountains. 



56 MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Fare from White Mountains, $5.55. 

Distance 115 miles. 

Fare from Franconia Mountains, $4.80. 

Distance 102 miles. 

Tickets can also be bought at a reduced rate ^ by Excur- 
tionists, for the round trip, from either of the Moun- 
tains, to Quebec^ or Montreal^ and back, to Wells 
River, or AVhite River Junction. 



FROM LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG 

TO 

QUEBEC AND MONTKEAL. 

Leave Newport at 7 o'clock, A. M., by Steamer 
Mountain Maid, Capt. Fogg, to the Outlet, (30 miles,) 
thence by stage, to Sherbrooke, (15 miles,) dine, take 
cars of the Grand Trunk Railway, and reach either of 
above cities same evening. 

Returning, leave Quebec at 5.45 A. M., Montreal at 
7 o'clock, A. M., by Grand Trunk Railway ; dine at 
Sherbrooke, thence by stage to the Outlet, take Steam- 
er, touching at the " Mountain House, ''^ lodge at New- 
port, and thence next morning, by stage to Barton ; 
Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad to the 
Mountains, Boston or New York, same evening, five 
hours quicker than by any other route. 

i 1 - 



<r^^ 



r?<: — 


<:i'r<L_ 


^--^ ^- — 


«:«:<:: 


ty^<z' 


*cc<e: 


fe^ 


<cc^c:i 


<:i:<^^ 


<i:^c •< 


<z[<:i 


<iC <r <: 


<2:^^: 


<c: c < 


<?^ 


<«:ic < 




-coc:.^ 


<2<l:: 


<5c:^^ 


<Z£<:^ 


<<S. c ^ 


^ <r 


<«-"cC « 



